HPI chest designs turn heads on the road and at the jobsite. Available in matte black powder coat, polished aluminum, black diamond plate, gladiator plate and the HPI exclusive leopard diamond plate. The unique Gullwing truck bed tool box is a saddle style box with smart designed tapered lids that deliver easy-to-reach access into the lockable box.
HPI offers several finishes with head turning aggressive looks. The Low Profile saddle style toolbox allows for maximum bed capacity and rear window visibility.
Add storage space and protection from the weather and safe guard your gear without blocking the rear window. The High Side toolbox provides secure, easily accessible storage to truck bed rails while maximizing bed space. Available in single and double door configurations with polished aluminum and matte black finish options.
On the back are two large, sturdy D-ring attachment points for tying down loads in the bed. These tools are then protected by a full weather seal around the lid which keeps dirt, water, and debris out of the box. How about finding a way to take a utility chest and using it to bring all your tools into one place?
Like the trailer tongue toolbox we looked at earlier, this box is going to need a home somewhere on your truck. Its square shape makes the box easy to build around. To keep the box from getting crushed on the jobsite, internal bends and 3-piece body construction adds a ton of beef to the box. Of course, the lid is also reinforced to prevent warping when closing and the gas-damped lid lifters make everything smooth.
For many of you who make your living out on the job site a pickup tool box is necessity. Keep in mind that some of these terms can change from one manufacturer to the next. These are the compartments you see on welding trucks, plumbing trucks, and utility service trucks.
These are great if your truck is used full time for work and you absolutely must have a maximum amount of storage space. They sit across the bed right behind the cab. Instead of running across the bed behind the cab, these tool boxes run along the bed rails.
That makes them generally easier to access than crossbed toolboxes. Unlike top mounted tool boxes, these sit flat and the tools lay flat inside them. Measure twice, order once — right? Measurements for top mounted tool boxes are more complicated and proper installation should probably be done by a professional.
This can take up precious real estate in the truck bed, especially if you have two toolboxes mounted up. Like everything we buy these days, materials are getting lighters, stronger, and easier for manufacturers to make.
Sometimes, however, we see manufacturers cut corners where it matters. Truck bed tool boxes are not the place to skimp out on good quality construction in my opinion! Welding is my preferred method for toolbox construction. Welded seams on toolboxes are usually spot welded and poor spot welds can come apart pretty easily over time or with rust.
Look for good penetration on spot welds and make sure the metal has properly bonded. Rivets are really just as good as welding when things are all said and done. While it may be hard or impossible to tell, one thing to check for is that your pickup truck tool box is made with the right rivets. Rivets must always be as hard, or harder than, the material they hold together. So, aluminum rivets holding together a steel box will eventually fail and fall apart.
Steel rivets must be used with steel boxes. Unfortunately, it also rusts like crazy. Steel boxes must be coated in some way. Paint or bed liner covering the toolbox will help stave off the rust but it only buys you time. Stainless steel is, of course, the answer to preventing rust when toolboxes are likely to get wet or left outdoors. Lightweight like plastic yet even more rustproof than stainless steel, aluminum is basically a win-win. In most cases, the biggest drawback with aluminum is that it can cost more than other materials.
Aluminum can vary from weak to nearly as durable as steel depending on its construction, alloy, and thickness. However, your tools are likely to scratch and gouge the box. Plus, if you toss things in and out of the bed or load something heavy the chances of damaging a plastic toolbox are greater than a sturdy steel box.
One big advantage of plastic is that it tends to be significantly lighter than steel so if keeping weight down is a priority, plastic may make a case. Another thing to keep in mind is that if you do any hot work like welding, plastic tool boxes are susceptible to melting or burning.
For me, mounting my toolbox straight to the truck itself would seem like a no-brainer. Plus hitting a pothole or going offroad can jostle things around so screwing, clamping, or otherwise securing the toolbox jus has to happen. Locking mechanisms on toolboxes have a tendency to foul up real quick. Look for locks that have covers or internal sliding covers to keep dirt, ice, water, and junk out of the tumblers inside.
You can alway spray some penetrating lubricant into the lock every once in a while as well to help keep it free and clear. A: For most crossbed truck tool boxes you will have to get up into the truck bed to get to your tools. The SwingCase series of toolboxes on our list is perfect for easy access. Side mounted boxes are also much easier to get to than crossbed boxes.
A: Aluminum cannot rust in the same way that steel can. Stainless steel is extremely rust resistant thanks to its high chromium content. Stainless steel, especially cheap alloys, can indeed still rust over time it just takes much longer than mild steel. A: Most toolboxes have a mounting kit that comes with them. Some hardware, a couple nuts, and bolts, that sort of thing.
Occasionally a toolbox will require custom mounting meaning drilling, tapping, etc. Usually, truck bed toolboxes sit all the way down to the floor and will partially obstruct the bed. On our list, there are several toolboxes that stop just short of the bed. That means you can still use the full size of the bed for sliding in the sheeting. A: There are so many types out there that I shudder to recommend a single one.
What I will say, though, is that you need a lock that engages the lid in more than one place. Good locks slide a solid bar or multiple points of contact onto the lid. That way anyone trying to pry the lid open will have a harder time. The force of pressure applied to the lid should be spread out among at least two distinct points.
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of truck styles on the market today.
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