The ground bars are constructed with numerous holes with screws attached to them and holes that intersect each screw hole in order to feed a wire through. Ultimately, the ground bar attaches to the main ground wire, which then attaches to the main grounding rod located outside the structure. The ground bar is the location within the main panel that wires from breakers and other devices are attached.
Installing a new ground bar into the main panel requires a fundamental understanding of electrical function and safety as well as some common tools. The first step when you are installing your ground bar is to turn the power off to your circuit breaker box. In order to perform this task, you might have to shut off the main power supply outside or call a qualified electrician to shut it down from the street.
Either way, it would be a prudent act for safety purposes to contact a local electrician, especially if you have questions on how to turn the main power off to your breaker box. Once the power is shut off, open the breaker box. Locate a suitable spot to install your ground bar. Ideally, you want an area located on the back wall of the breaker box, a spot without a lot of wires that is covering the direct area.
When you find the appropriate location, hold the ground bar in place inside the breaker box where you plan to install it and mark its location with a pencil. It is very important that you mark the holes where the screws will also go. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1.
Install the rod in a location near the electrical panel. Ground rods need to be installed in the ground outside in a spot where they can be hammered 8 feet 2. There is no requirement for how close or far from a building they should go, but be sure to pick a spot that is convenient to get to and where you will have space to use tools to drive the rod into the ground.
Because of this, it's best to keep it at least 2 feet 0. Plan the route for the grounding electrode conductor. Once a ground rod is driven into the ground, it will need to be connected to the electrical panel inside.
This is done with a wire called the grounding electrode conductor. It's important to factor its route in when picking a spot for the ground rod. Make sure the grounding cable can easily be routed to the panel from where the grounding rod is positioned. Avoid locations where the ground is mostly rock or heavily compacted. Because you have to drive the rod 8 feet 2. While you wont always be able to avoid rocks or know they are there, avoid picking an area that you know is full of rocks.
Locate any wires or pipes in the path of the ground rod. Once you have picked a spot to put your ground rod, you need to make sure you will not damage anything in the ground when you install it. In many countries, there are hotlines you can call to have your utilities located free of charge. In the US, for example, there is a national hotline that you can call in order to notify your utilities that you need a locator.
If there is no locating hotline in your areas, you can call the utility companies directly that serve the building and ask them to locate their underground lines. Part 2. Purchase an approved grounding rod. Grounding rods need to made of specific conductive metals and they need to made to a specific length and width. Because of this, it's best to buy a rod that is specifically made for this use. Buying a listed rod, meaning it has been verified by a certification group, will ensure that your grounding rod is the correct size and material.
Most home improvement and hardware stores stock approved grounding rods. In the US, ground rods need to be at least 8 feet 2. The mark allows an electrical inspector to immediately know you have used a proper rod. Start digging a hole with a shovel or post-hole digger. Because a ground rod is so long, it can be hard to get leverage on the top of it when you start installing it. To get the top down to a more manageable level, dig a hole 2—4 feet 0.
By putting the end of the ground rod in the hole, it will be easier to start hammering the top of the rod. If you don't want to dig a hole or you can't for some reason, you will need a ladder or step stool to get up high enough to start pounding in the top of the ground rod. Drive the rod into the ground. However, since you must now have a bonded neutral in sub panels, this is more of a pain to attempt since you have a separate grounding circut right there already.
Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Ask Question. Asked 8 years, 7 months ago. Active 1 year, 11 months ago. Viewed k times. Improve this question. Machavity Jay L's answer sounds good. The green head screw usually comes separately and is provided to bond the neutral bar to the panel and should not be used in a subpanel.
Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. JayL JayL 3, 1 1 gold badge 17 17 silver badges 21 21 bronze badges. What code? Can you site the code section? Can you quote the code? Building s or structure s supplied by feeder s or branch circuits s shall have a grounding electrode or grounding electrode system installed in accordance with Part III of Article
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