This will eliminate all the slack in the wire and provide a flat, straight base to apply the base coat material. We are going to repeat the process for the remaining runs of one the coat wire and the only new thing that will get introduced is the overlap, along both the vertical and horizontal joints.
Stapling the rest of the wire to the foam is the same process. Start in the middle, staple that stud off and make your way outwards, working from the top down. In this example, we are going to be wrapping the outside corner and attaching it to the nearest stud.
Then we will be starting a new run of wire that overlaps that, making a nice and neat transition. Stapling the wire in the corner before wrapping it will prevent bubbles from forming in the wire and will make wrapping the corners easier. Staple the corner off like the picture shows, then creasing the wire using your hand to form a nice tight 90 degree angle.
After you have made a nice crease in the wire, wrap it around the corner and staple the opposite side of the corner. After that is done, you can then staple the remaining edge off, making sure that your staples are penetrating the studs and not missing.
Inside corners are really no different than outside ones, you simply bend the wire the opposite way and fasten the wire systematically, in the same way. After you have your precut lengths ready to go, lay the wire along the wall, making sure your bottom edge is where it needs to be either straight with weep or overlapping other piece of wire and staple the one side of the inside corner, as illustrated.
After the first corner is stapled, bend the wire to make a crease for the inside corner bend it back onto itself and then hold it so the wire fits nicely in the corner. The home shown in our photo left was the subject of litigation. We observed that the final stucco had been applied over wet surfaces and in some cases over surfaces that also had been troubled by soil that had splashed-up on the building during rainy weather.
Stucco wall paint failures are also traced to moisture, efflorescence, and failure to adequately clean the exterior and then allow it to dry before painting. In an effort to speed up stucco application time and simplify the process, several manufacturers have introduced proprietary thin-coat stucco systems variously referred to as one-coat, two-coat, thin-coat, or fiberglass-reinforced stucco.
Our photo of a thin-coat stucco wall being constructed left was at a Barnes and Noble bookstore in Poughkeepsie, NY. The thinner finish weighs from 5 to 6 pounds per square foot, compared to 9 pounds for three-coat, and it is cost-competitive with traditional stucco.
Like traditional three-coat stucco, thin-coat is applied over wire mesh or expanded metal lath by hand or pump. It is backed up by a waterproof drainage plane consisting of Grade D building paper, integral flashings, and a weep screed along the top of the foundation to drain away any trapped water. Some manufacturers, such as United States Gypsum, have introduced hybrid systems in which the stucco is applied to a cementitious board rather than to wire mesh. The advantage is that cement board is impervious to moisture.
The drainage plane, and in some cases a layer of foam insulation, lies behind the cement board. The base coat in thin-coat systems has acrylic polymers and chopped fiberglass added to increase its strength and resistance to shrinkage cracking and to freeze-thaw cycles. The base coat is premixed with only sand and water added at the job site. This produces a smoother finish that is more water- and stain-resistant and less prone to cracking than a traditional stucco. The top coat can also be a traditional cement stucco finish.
Most of these systems require a to hour moist cure and a total of six or seven days of curing before the top coat is applied. Some require a primer for acrylic finishes. Our thin-coat stucco wall damage photo above-left shows the vulnerability of this system to damage by common events at or around a building: in this case the use of a weed-whacker to trim growth close to the building wall. This EIFS installation is also installed so close to the ground as to invite insect attack on the structure.
To their credit, properly applied onecoat systems are more waterproof and less prone to shrinkage cracking than traditional stucco. It is easier to obtain a uniform color and texture with the synthetic color coat than with a traditional cementitious finish coat. Whether a customer prefers the uniform color of a synthetic finish or the more muted and variable color of cement stucco is a matter of taste. Our photo of a leaky stucco window sill on a New York home left shows a damaged, leaky sill where plastic mesh was used as a modern substitute for expanded metal lath.
On the downside, one-coat systems are less impact resistant than traditional three-coat stucco. Also, one-coat stucco systems are not completely waterproof. Over time, water will find its way in at joints, penetrations, or cracks, and the synthetic stucco will be slower to dry out than the more permeable traditional stucco.
Otherwise, warranties are voided and code approvals, which are based on building code evaluation reports, are invalid. For both reasons, contractors should avoid mixing and matching components from different thin-coat systems.
They were designed to create a waterproof exterior skin consisting of a thin layer of acrylic polymer-based synthetic stucco directly applied to foam insulation. Our photo left shows a modern Sto-Wall covered home that was investigated to diagnose the sources of wall leaks through the stucco system. We found many installation details that did not follow the manufacturer's recommendations. As a result there were significant leaks into building walls and a considerable mold contamination issue as well.
A layer of fiberglass cloth embedded in the synthetic stucco provided reinforcement, and a thin acrylic finish coat added color and texture. With the EPS glued directly to the sheathing, there was no place for building paper or conventional flashings at penetrations. Openings, joints, and penetrations relied on caulks and sealants for waterproofing.
With no backup waterproofing or drainage layer, there was little margin for error. While these systems performed adequately in Europe for nearly 25 years, the United States version had thinner base coats and lower polymer content, creating a weaker skin.
Also, workmanship in the United States was often inferior due to lack of applicator training and quality-control programs. The water running down this building interior wall photo above-left was traced to omission of the manufacturer-specified sealant methods at the top of the building exterior wall. Wind-blown rain entered the wall top just below the soffit overhang, wet the wall interior cavity, and finally appeared on the foundation walls below.
When water leaked into these systems through failed caulk joints, cracks in the stucco skin, or through the window frames themselves, it wet the foam insulation, sheathing, and sometimes the structural framework.
As with traditional stucco, layered building paper or plastic housewrap protects the framing and sheathing, and all exterior openings and penetrations are flashed to conduct any water to the outside of the sheathing wrap. Since window leakage was the single biggest contributor to EIFS failures, pan flashing is recommended at windows. Rather than gluing the EPS foam to the sheathing, the new drainage EIFS typically use mechanical fasteners and are designed with a capillary break between the back of the EPS and the sheathing wrap to promote drainage.
Some EIFS contractors use special corrugated or wrinkled sheathing papers to create the drainage space, while others have vertical grooves cut into the back face of the foam insulation. In all cases, the drainage plane leads to a perforated weep flashing at the foundation to drain away any trapped water. The backup drainage layer, however, should not provide an excuse for sloppy workmanship on the exterior skin. The new kinds of EIFS should still be made as waterproof as possible, since any water that leaks past the skin may be slow to dry out.
In addition, Kenney recommends a heavier 6-ounce reinforcing mesh versus the typical 3-ounce cloth, as well as special high-impact mesh in high-traffic areas.
These steps will significantly improve the impact resistance of EIFS, but it is still less durable than traditional stucco or thin-coat stucco. As with the original barrier EIFS, all penetrations require a high-quality elastomeric sealant. The sealant needs to be applied to the base coat since the finish coat tends to soften when wet, providing a poor substrate for sealant. Throw a few staples in the paper after the paper is taught.
The rest of the runs are simple, you just need to have enough overlap on where the wire meets both horizontal and vertical joints and you work the wire the same exact way. Staple the top edge first, making sure you have three bubbles overlapped and staple the top of the wire along the entire wall.
Then tighten the wire and staple it off using a 6 and 12 pattern. To keep things simple, just make sure that the overlap on the new piece of wire is three rings, like the picture illustrates. Use the same method that we used for the first piece of wire, stapling the top edge along the entire wall, working the center of the wire down and then working outwards in both directions from there.
The outside corners will get wrapped around the corners and then our new piece will overlap that starting at the corner, making a neat and clean transition. We will want to staple the wire to the corner before we wrap it around the corner, this will prevent bubbles from forming and make a nice sharp turn.
Start by stapling the middle of the wire and then stapling the top and bottom edges. Then you will want to put a staple in between those so we can fold the wire around the corner. Then you will want to bend the wire around the corner using your hand, so that the wire has a sharp bend to fit the 90 degree corner snugly. Then staple the opposite side of the corner starting in the middle, then the top and bottom edges, then in between those, like we did earlier.
Then staple off the edges of the wire on the stud that we are attaching the wire to. Now start your new run on the edge of the corner and the only seam you will have will be on the corner… nice and neat! Inside corners are really no different than outside ones, you simply bend the wire the opposite way and fasten the wire systematically, in the same way. Thanks for stopping by! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
The wire is typically galvanized, in order to prevent corrosion of the wire over the years. Typical Sizes It Comes In: This type of wire comes in a roll and measures approximately 36" tall by ' long, so roughly sq. I have also seen it on many of the Home Depot's I have been to, which makes it more convenient for most people. Typical Sizes It Comes In: One coat wire comes in a roll, just like the three coat wire and measures the same, which is roughly 36" tall by ' long, so an estimated sq.
It seems to be available depending on the area I'm in. A stucco supply store will surely have it in stock most of the time. Typical Sizes It Comes In: High rib lath comes in sheets that measure about 27" by 8' and are sheets as opposed to rolls. You will get approximately 16 square feet of coverage per sheet after overlapping the edges.
What's It Used For: Soffits ceilings only. I have not seen it that often at any larger home improvement store, so I couldn't say whether or not they have it. Expanded Metal Lath:. Typical Sizes It Comes In: Expanded metal lath measures 27" wide by 8' in length, just like the high rib lath and come in sheets too. What's It Used For: Patches, masonry, tile, stone veneer, etc.
Where Do I Get It: This stuff can be found just about anywhere because it is so common and used by many different trades. I have noticed that a specialty store will have better prices and selections than a bigger chain store, just fyi. Paperback Stucco Wire Open Stud : This type of wire has the paper attached to it already and is used for open stud applications mostly. One Kind Of Paperback Wire. Another Kind Of Paperback Wire.
Fiberglass Wire Mesh For Stucco:. They make wire for nearly every type of stucco application though.
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